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How To Look After Taxidermy

A complete guide

HOW TO LOOK AFTER TAXIDERMY

Follow these simple care precautions and you’ll be sure to have a taxidermy mount that will last a lifetime and beyond!

Basic Steps

Step One

Keep out of direct sunlight

Step Two

Display in a cool, dry place.

Step Three

De-dust by gently using a hair dryer on a cool setting at arms length.

Step Four

Avoid frequently touching/handling.

Ultimate Protection

The give your taxidermy specimen the best protection possible, consider buying  a glass dome.

This will protect your specimen from dust, wear and tear, cat attacks (if you have a mischievous cat like me!) and other environmental factors.

Glass domes and display cases are great way of keeping your taxidermy in top condition indefinitely.

However, if you choose not to, then following the simple taxidermy care tips below, your taxidermy will look as good as the day you got without this extra protection;

 

No touchy!


An advantage of having an uncased taxidermy specimen is that you can get up close and personal!

As you’re walking past your new taxidermy specimen, you’ll find it extremely hard to resist the urge to stroke it.

This is fine very occasionally, but try your hardest not to to do it too much as natural oils and grease from your fingers will stain and damage your taxidermy specimen over time.

Easy on the UV rays


To keep your taxidermy in tip-top condition, I highly recommend that you keep your specimens out of direct sunlight in a cool, dry place.

Over time, sun exposure leads to colour de-saturation which results in some very pale, odd looking creatures.

Ugh, dust!


Not to fear! You can use a hair dryer approximately 30cm away from your taxidermy specimen to gently blow away the layer of dust that has settled. Please make sure that you use the hairdryer on the COOLEST and LOWEST strength setting in the same direction the feathers or fur lay to avoid damage.

You can also use a clean, dry cloth to wipe off excess dust in the same direction as the fur or feathers. Gently does it!

For a deeper clean on feathered or furred mounts, apply some warm water to a clean cotton wool ball,  squeze it out as much as posible then gently wipe the feathers or fur in the direction that they are facing, staying away from any painted or varnished areas.
Allowing it to dry naturally, do not apply heat.

Bring back the sparkle


If the eyes appear a little ‘dull’ looking, you can very carefully use a cotton bud dipped it in luke warm water so it’s damp and use to clean the eyes in a gentle, circular motion to bring back the sparkle.

Do not use cleaning product as this could lead to damage.

Insect Infestation


In all of the years that I have been collecting and making taxidermy, I have never had an issue with any sort of insect infestation in any of my mounts as they are kept in a clean environment, so take the following information as a precaution only:

Even though a preserved taxidermy specimen has all of the muscle, membrane and tissue removed from it, been treated, tanned, dried, glued, and mounted to the highest standard to deter bugs, it still could be inviting to some unwanted visitors.

Clothes moths, dermestid beetles, and cockroaches are culprits of infesting mounted trophies for various reasons, and can ruin even the best taxidermy mount.

Final Note

Keeping your house in good order is the best way to prevent unwanted guests touching your taxidermy, so clean, happy house – clean, happy, pest-free taxidermy! A vacuum cleaner is by far the best pest management tool – Be sure to dispose of the contents of the vacuum cleaner bag after you complete your house cleaning routine.

If you are concerned about insects damaging your taxidermy, it’s a good idea to occasionally inspect your mounts (especially around the ears, antlers and around the mouth) for any signs of pests.

If you find any sort of insect, bug or cobweb like material amongst the fur or feathers, please get in touch as soon as possible so I can give you some advice on what to do next.